Leiden University Student Repository

Riccobon, Erika (2020)

Befitting the Mughal ‘Eternal Spring’: The Nascent Buta Pattern in Kashmir Shawls: A Study in the Light of the Mughal Islamic and Central Asian Heritage

Bachelor thesis | South and Southeast Asian Studies (BA)

This thesis focuses on the nascent buta pattern, as woven into Kashmir shawls from the 1680s until the end of the 17th century. It argues that Shah Jahan’s flowering plant motif played a crucial role in the development of the nascent buta pattern. Consequently, this thesis argues that the development of the nascent buta may have been shaped as much by contemporary Iranian and European stylistic influences—as is often argued—as by the Mughals' own Islamic and Central Asian heritage. This thesis also makes an iconological contribution. Following the aesthetic development of the shawls—still plain, under Akbar—I aim to investigate how each Mughal emperor articulated his quest for royal identity. In this context, I study this royal pattern—and its success—as a symbol of the Mughal garden, which is an expression of the Qur'anic al-janna (the Paradise Garden), as well as of the Timurid garden. Additionally, my purpose is to highlight how Kashmir shawls, and the nascent buta pattern, came...Show moreThis thesis focuses on the nascent buta pattern, as woven into Kashmir shawls from the 1680s until the end of the 17th century. It argues that Shah Jahan’s flowering plant motif played a crucial role in the development of the nascent buta pattern. Consequently, this thesis argues that the development of the nascent buta may have been shaped as much by contemporary Iranian and European stylistic influences—as is often argued—as by the Mughals' own Islamic and Central Asian heritage. This thesis also makes an iconological contribution. Following the aesthetic development of the shawls—still plain, under Akbar—I aim to investigate how each Mughal emperor articulated his quest for royal identity. In this context, I study this royal pattern—and its success—as a symbol of the Mughal garden, which is an expression of the Qur'anic al-janna (the Paradise Garden), as well as of the Timurid garden. Additionally, my purpose is to highlight how Kashmir shawls, and the nascent buta pattern, came to be considered extremely valuable and sophisticated items, by focusing on Islamic gift-giving practices.Show less

Mughal

Textiles

Kashmir shawls

Buta

Author

Riccobon, Erika

Faculty

Faculty of Humanities

Specialisation

South and Southeast Asian Studies

Supervisors

Raven, Ellen M.

ECTS Credits

10

Language

en