This thesis has sought to answer how gara, a type of embroidery embellished on traditional sari, works as a communicative tool of Parsi identity to both non-Parsi and Parsi. In order to achieve...Show moreThis thesis has sought to answer how gara, a type of embroidery embellished on traditional sari, works as a communicative tool of Parsi identity to both non-Parsi and Parsi. In order to achieve this, we shall see first how dress is able to communicate identity to oneself and others through a process this thesis dubs embellishment, before focusing in on the social, historical, and religious aspects of gara, and uncovering what collective Parsi identity is communicated through gara exactly. This thesis concludes that the process of embellishment communicates an identity that is Parsi through applying an identity narrative on dress which is interacted with by others to formulate a temporarily fixed identity of the wearer. This identity narrative embellished on gara has social, historical, and religious roots, all of which are discussed in the thesis at length. This thesis thus answers two important questions in the study of identity communication through dress, by explaining how identity can be transmitted though dress, as well as how this identity is formulated.Show less
Johannesburg the “city of creativity” is known for its modernity and its cultivation of a postApartheid urban identity that remains central to its profile as a contemporary South African city....Show moreJohannesburg the “city of creativity” is known for its modernity and its cultivation of a postApartheid urban identity that remains central to its profile as a contemporary South African city. However, South Africa as a nation is troubled by high levels of unemployment that disproportionally affect Black South African women. This thesis paper intends to analyse Johannesburg’s fashion and textile industry as a means to promote development through the inclusivity of women. It analyses their current roles in creative industries and the ways in which the fashion and textile industries can increase their accessibility for further inclusion of women. Additionally, this thesis looks at ways in which the fashion and textile industries can expand to promote increased income generation for the women already involved.Show less
Research master thesis | African Studies (research) (MA)
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This thesis aims to explore African identity through a popular culture lens. It uses a comparative approach between Morocco and Senegal and focuses on three main components of popular culture:...Show moreThis thesis aims to explore African identity through a popular culture lens. It uses a comparative approach between Morocco and Senegal and focuses on three main components of popular culture: football, music and fashion. This research examines how the latter may or not promote a shared African identity between Morocco and Senegal. This thesis is based on an ethnographic study in Ifrane, Rabat and Essaouira in Morocco and Dakar in Senegal. It relies heavily on qualitative data resulting from seven month’s fieldwork in both countries. The research explores African identity through the stories of the people directly concerned, Africans. In the first instance, and as a way of understanding one population segment – the youth – semi-structured interviews were conducted with Moroccan students from Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane, which demonstrated the influence of some aspects of popular culture, but also of education in shaping their identities as Africans. In the same measure, interviews were also conducted with Senegalese students from University Cheikh Anta Diop in Dakar. Furthermore, this research also relies on interviews with older generations in both Morocco and Senegal, as well as participant observations by attending events related to music, fashion and football. Part of the research also relies on surveys conducted during the African Cup of Nations. This thesis showcases how popular culture promotes a shared African identity between Morocco and Senegal by, first, promoting African unity illustrated by football games, second, by promoting African history, through a music - Gnawa - that has traveled from Sub-Saharan Africa to North Africa to recall their stories, and third, by promoting African roots, highlighted by Moroccan young designers who use fashion as a tool to assert their African identity. Finally, this research aims to contribute to a larger academic debate on the separation of North Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa, by outlining popular culture as an important factor when studying and comparing the latter. Therefore, on a academic level, it aims to raise awareness with regards to paying more attention to North Africa as part of the African continent - thus part of African studies; and second, on a social level, as a way of promoting African identity and unity through the power of popular culture.Show less
In this thesis I will examine the narrative and non-narrative functions of fashion in film, such as the narrative function of fashion to represent time and space and the non-narrative function of...Show moreIn this thesis I will examine the narrative and non-narrative functions of fashion in film, such as the narrative function of fashion to represent time and space and the non-narrative function of fashion as a special effect. Therefore the research question is as follows: ‘what are the narrative and non-narrative functions of fashion in contemporary film throughout the 21st century?’ I distinguish narrativity and non-narrativity since I would like to argue fashion can have a narrative function, a non-narrative function or both. The narrative cause and effect relationship which takes place in a time and space with a clear beginning and ending can be emphasized by costumes, just as it can serve as pure spectacle which is seen as non-narrative. By addressing several functions, I would like to prove that fashion is important and relevant in the studies of film and should be further examined as the digital age develops quickly.Show less
Generalizations such as Asian women prefer white skin, or western women desires tanned skin exists. With what measurements do people generate such stereotypes and what does it mean? Regardless the...Show moreGeneralizations such as Asian women prefer white skin, or western women desires tanned skin exists. With what measurements do people generate such stereotypes and what does it mean? Regardless the skin color preferences it is a reality that the action of skin whitening or intended tanning is part of a cosmetic procedure. In other words it is an action of ‘doing beauty’. Beautifying one’s self is a common action that is seen in the world regardless of culture and skin color often plays a significant role in shaping what is beauty in a society. Many scholars in the field of researching white skin preference amongst Japanese women tend to associate and conclude by mentioning that it is due to the historical preference or it is due to the admiration for Caucasian skin as the definition of beauty or it is simply a ‘Japanese thing’. However, cultural preference of skin color is not always consistent and it could highly fluctuate due to the influence of cosmetic and fashion industry. Therefore in order to fill in the gap of research in relation to understanding white skin preference in Japan this thesis will analyze how could the white skin preference be understood in Japan in relation to the influence of cosmetic and fashion industry. Keywords: identity, skin perception, fashion, beautyShow less
Studies have shown that the emergence of environmental activism and awareness came largely with Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring, first published in 1962. However, fashion has been late to follow this...Show moreStudies have shown that the emergence of environmental activism and awareness came largely with Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring, first published in 1962. However, fashion has been late to follow this trend with some estimates unbelievably placing the emergence of sustainably aware fashion as recently as 2010. As such, the fashion industry is still responsible for a large proportion of global pollution at almost every stage of garment existence, from production through to disposal. Petrochemicals, toxic chemical dyes and energy intensive recycling are just the start. Current efforts of the fashion industry to become sustainable aim only to make the system ‘less bad’ with initiatives focusing often on one aspect of the process, for example with fair trade, rather than looking at the whole. What may be obtained fairly will most likely meet the same end as that which was obtained ‘unfairly’ be that in landfill or perhaps sent abroad for alternative use. I will argue that this is the reason for a total overhaul of the current fashion industry processes. This thesis aims to illustrate that bio-design is the only viable option to replace this unsustainable fashion system. The use of living materials in bio-design allows for a cyclical design process in which nothing is taken from nature that cannot be given back. The Tissue Culture & Art Project and Suzanne Lee use bio-design in the production of new materials, whilst Natsai Audrey Chieza and Blond & Bieber create bio-designed garment dyes. Bio-design includes a wide array of processes including biomimicry and synthetic biology and so these cases have been chosen to show as many facets of this as possible in order to demonstrate the huge potential of the field for creating sustainable fashion.Show less
